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Do you have to change the oil every 3,000 miles? by Julia Layton Like the five-day work week and glasses in about an hour,the 3,000-mile oil change is part of the American consciousness allscanner. Whether you follow the guideline or not,the number remains the same,decade after decade and car after car. It's been around so long,most of us don't even question its veracity. But where does the recommendation come from allscanner vcx,and is it legitimate? If you check your car's user manual,you'll probably find you've been changing your oil more often than you need to,at least according to the people who designed your car. Most carmakers abandoned the 3,000-mile (4,828-kilometer) interval long ago,opting instead to advise their customers to go 5,000 or 7,500 miles (8,046 or 12,070 kilometers) between oil changes [source: MEMA]. Some people even go 10,000 miles (16,093 kilometers) or more without any guilt -- or damage to the engine. The 3,000-mile guideline dates back to a time when motor oil wasn't quite as advanced as it is now. It used to be that if oil were left in the crankcase too long,it would start to degrade,causing a buildup of sludge [source: Torbjornsen]. But over the years,as tailpipe-emissions regulations have changed,so have engines and the oils that keep them running smoothly. Today's motor oils don't break down as quickly. Under ideal driving conditions,some synthetic oils can go about 25,000 miles (40,233 kilometers) [source: CIWMB]. Of course,driving conditions are seldom ideal. Lots of idling,stop-and-go traffic,extremely hot or cold weather,humidity and towing can all decrease the lifespan of engine oil. Plus,every car is a little different. The interval that is perfectly fine for one car could be way too long for another. So in reality,very few drivers will go 25,000 miles without an oil change,even if they spring for high-grade synthetic oil. And most of them shouldn't,although some can go 10,000 without a problem [source: CIWMB]. And yet most people still aim for 3,000-mile changes,perhaps because they don't know it's excessive,or perhaps because they adhere to an extreme better-safe-than-sorry principle. The result is millions of extra dollars wasted on oil changes and millions of extra gallons of oil potentially polluting the environment. The best advice,then? Ignore the oil industry and go by your car's user manual,which will probably advise an interval of 5,000 miles or more. You'll save some money -- and possibly keep the world a little greener in the process.
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Trouble Shooting Car trouble doesn't always mean major repairs. Here are some common causes of trouble and techniques to help you and your technician find and fix problems: Alternator — Loose wiring can make your alternator appear defective. Your technician should check for loose connections and perform an output test before replacing the alternator. Battery — Corroded or loose battery terminals can make the battery appear dead or defective. Your technician should clean the terminals and test battery function before replacing the battery. Starter — What appears to be a defective starter actually may be a dead battery or poor connection. Ask your technician to check all connections and test the battery before repairing the starter autel mx-sensor 315MHz. Muffler — a loud rumbling noise under your vehicle indicates a need for a new muffler or exhaust pipe. Tune-up — The old-fashioned"tune-up"may not be relevant to your vehicle launch golo carcare. Fewer parts, other than belts, spark plugs, hoses and filters, need to be replaced on newer vehicles. Follow the recommendations in your owner's manual.
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Winter vehicle tires maintenance First, do you know the qualities of winter tires? The primary purpose of the tire driving pressure is sent to alter the direction of travel and bearing the load from the vibration buffer, etc., and also the safety performance from the tire largely is dependent on being able to grip and stability. Cold winter months and icy snow inevitable phenomenon, vehicle proprietors frequently have a problem walking snow and ice distress. To some normal vehicle, driving securely, obviously, inseparable in the normal functioning from the tire features. So, we have a look in the tire under cold in the winter months do you know the qualities from it! Primary grooves much deeper md802 review, wider Tread much softer texture Blocky tread pattern was arranged, vertical and horizontal integration More horizontal, laterally encouraging shoulder Tip proprietors: devoted snow tire shoulder design to really make it a more powerful tire transverse and lateral support, could reduce skidding around the snow surface. Second, Note using winter tires? Cold winter temps, relatively hard rubber at cold atmosphere, brittle, and for the reason has an effect on the tire pressure is suitable existence and traffic safety. Tire pressure isn't excessive, but more can't be lacking. Pressure is not high enough, the tire wall will fold curvature increases, and combined using the cold is simple to help make the rubber tire wall fracture pressure is simply too high will reduce tire grip. Give consideration to check on whether each tire inflated balance. You may also consider changing the tires from the vehicle during the cold months as winter tires. Request him in summary what safeguards to make use of winter tires. Look into the tread depth. Tread put on reflects tire put on Check whether there's uneven tire tread put on or any other abnormal signs and symptoms, like the emergence drum kits, cuts or cracks Using the tire pressure towards the outdoors temperature changes moderate adjustment Recognition of tire pressure, winter driving isn't excessive nor lacking tire pressure Additionally, proprietors Tip: To timely alternative of worn-out bigger and various designs of various brands of tires, tire change position regularly to make sure traffic safety TPMS. Third, do you know the factors affecting tire existence? Tire existence and tire installation, working pressure, tire load, maximum speed, tire temperature, chassis condition, road conditions, driving habits, tire maintenance, vehicle maintenance along with other facets of the standards, it is not easy to exactly one tire existence the number of years, just how much mileage. However, the tire pressure is simply too high or lacking will definitely reduce its service existence. When the tire pressure is not high enough, the radial deformation increases, excessive deformation from the tire wall on sides, inducing the tread shoulders and put on phenomenon boosts the temperature from the tire, it'll seriously lessen the existence from the tire. When the tire pressure is simply too high, the rigidity from the tire increases, the deformation and also the ground contact area decreases, to ensure that the center of the tread unit to improve pressure, elevated wears. You will find good quality diagnostic tools will help you repair your vehicle on your own. For example: Autel MaxiTPMS TS501, Launch GDS, Autel Maxisys pro and so on. If you would like learn more about vehicle repair information, check out the below site: Better Website
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Brake Pad Replacement Difficulty: Moderately Difficult Duration: 1 hour How often: As needed,depending on brake wear A well-maintained set of brakes should last you for tens of thousands of miles,but brake pads do wear down over time and will eventually need replacing maxitpms ts501. With a little patience and some elbow grease you can do the job yourself,and save some money in the process. Things you'll need from your garage or your local NAPA AUTO PARTS Store: * New brake pads * C-clamp (some vehicles will require a brake caliper tool) * Graphite-based grease * Jack and jack stands * Lug wrench * Wrench (a socket,open or adjustable wrench should work) * Disposable mechanic's gloves * Dust mask and safety glasses Before You Get Started There are a few things you should know before changing your brake pads. First,most vehicles have a"sliding caliper"brake assembly,but some have a"fixed caliper"assembly. In this guide,we will be working with a"sliding caliper"brake assembly. Second,change the brake pads one side at a time,from start to finish. You can turn the steering wheel toward the side you are working on,to allow for better access to the brake pads and calipers. Check for Brake Wear Conveniently,most brake pads have a wear indicator,which warns you when the pads have worn down. The wear indicator is a small piece of metal embedded in the brake pad that makes contact with the rotor when the pad wears down,resulting in a squealing noise as you apply the brakes elite md802. If you hear this sound,it's time to change your brake pads. Step 1 Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel,then jack up the vehicle and place the jack stands underneath the frame. Check your vehicle's manual for exact positioning of the jack and jack stands. Once the jack stands are in place,lower the jack so that the vehicle is completely supported by the jack stands. Finish removing the lug nuts and remove the wheel. Before you continue,examine the brake rotor for damage and wear. You may notice grooves in the brake rotor. If the grooves are deep,or if the rotor looks damaged,you may need to have the rotors replaced or"turned"on a brake lathe. Take the vehicle to your nearest NAPA AutoCare Center if your rotors are damaged. Step 2 Locate the two slider bolts that hold the caliper in place.  f the caliper doesn't fit over the new pads,the pistons may not have been retracted completely. Once the caliper fits back into position,insert the lower slider bolt and tighten it down. Make sure the upper slider bolt is secure,as well. Step 9 Replace the cap on the brake fluid reservoir,straighten the steering wheel and pump the brakes a few times from inside the car until the brakes are properly seated. Next,Put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle off the jack stand. Once the vehicle is back on the ground,finish tightening the lug nuts. Start over from step one and repeat the process to change the brake pads on the other side of the vehicle. Once complete,take the vehicle for a test drive to make sure that your work was successful. Important Tips: * Consult your owner's manual or visit your local NAPA AUTO PARTS Store to ensure you purchase the correct brake pads for your vehicle. * Make sure your vehicle is securely supported. You will need two jack stands to support the front of your vehicle. * Use mechanic's gloves and wear a dust mask and safety glasses to protect yourself from brake dust and other debris. * Remember,you can always take your vehicle to a NAPA AutoCare Center and have your brakes replaced for you.
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Why need a car? It is convenient to travel, especially in the winter.

In the cold winter, and when you open the car door smartly, only to discover that the car can't be started. How is it? It really is a depressing thing.

Why buy a used car? Finding the right balance between value and risk Two- and three-year-old used vehicles are often the best values. Not only is the price lower than a comparable new car's,but continuing ownership expenses such as collision insurance and taxes are lower,and a two- or three-year-old used vehicle has already taken its biggest depreciation hit allscanner. In addition,buying used is a way to get a nicer car than you'd be able to afford new. But buying a used vehicle means finding the right balance of value and risk. Following are some issues to consider. Reliability. One thing that has made used cars more appealing is their improved reliability. In an analysis of Consumer Reports' annual sub-scriber surveys over the past few years we found that five-year-old vehicles had one-third fewer problems than the five-year-old vehicles we looked at in 2007. Years ago rust and exhaust-system problems were common,but that's no longer the case,and major engine and transmission problems have also decreased,making late-model used vehicles far less of a risk. When properly maintained,today's vehicles should easily surpass 100,000 miles without a major overhaul,and many could reach 200,000 miles. Warranties and repairs. Although used cars are more reliable than ever,maintenance and repair costs are important considerations. In the first two or three years of a car's life,it has fewer problems and is typically covered by a comprehensive warranty. An older used car,however,is usually out of warranty or close to it. You can expect not only more problems as time goes on,but more costly ones as the years and miles pile up. This means that owners will have to pay for repairs and for wear parts like tires,brakes and batteries. But even if you replaced all those things the moment you bought a used car,the savings over a new car would more than compensate. There is always the risk that you'll buy a lemon. Even a car with a great reliability history can be a poor example launch crp129,or have been abused,neglected,or damaged by a previous owner. By having the vehicle thoroughly inspected by a qualified mechanic,you can protect yourself against nasty surprises. Depreciation. A major disadvantage of buying a new car is its rapid depre-ciation. Models typically lose about 47 percent of their value in the first three years,com-pared with 24 percent over the next three. But this varies greatly among models. The BMW 328i,for example,has held its value relatively well (about 40 percent depreciation over the first three years),while the Lincoln MKZ has depreciated more rapidly (about 50 percent). Several factors determine depreciation,including the model's popularity,perceived quality,supply,and whether or not the vehicle belongs to the current design generation. The average depreciation on a $27,500 vehicle leaves less than $15,000 ($14,575) after three years,a huge hit in residual value. Interest rates. Loans for new cars usually have a lower interest rate,but the difference is often not a major concern. In March 2014 the national aver-age for a 60-month new-car loan was about 3.11 percent,according to Bankrate.com; a 60-month used-car loan was about2.80 percent. When rates are within just one percentage point of each other,the additional inter-est you pay on a typical used-car loan adds only about $7 to $15 to the monthly loan payment. Insurance. You'll typically pay a bit less to in--sure a used vehicle than a new version of the same model. Safety. Buying a used car means you might not get the latest safety features. Features such as electronic stability control (ESC),head-protecting curtain air bags,and advanced frontal air bag systems are hard to find on older vehicles. But ones such as antilock brakes,traction control,and side air bags have been commonplace for quite a few years now.
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Oil Life Monitoring Systems (New Technology Takes Guesswork out of Oil Change Intervals) Until recently, the question of when to change your oil was usually answered by your local garage, which had a vested interest in servicing your car every 3 autel mx-sensor,000 miles. Your alternative was to crack the owner's manual to see whether your driving habits fell into the "severe" or "normal" category. And then you'd let the listed interval be your frequency increasingly, the change-interval question is being answered by a vehicle's oil life monitoring system, which signals the driver through the instrument panel. This alert usually arrives anywhere between 5,000 and 8,000 how does the system know when it's time for a change? Electronic sensors throughout the drivetrain send information about engine revolutions, temperature and driving time to the car's computer. The data is run through a mathematical algorithm that predicts when the oil will begin to degrade autel tpms ts401. The light comes on well in advance, giving the owner time to get the car life monitoring systems have been around for several decades. They were introduced in General Motors vehicles in the late 1980s and have been phased in slowly, said Matt Snider, project engineer in GM's Fuels and Lubricants Group. "We are very confident in the accuracy of the system," he said. The average recommendation from the system for GM vehicles is 8,500 miles, Snider said. He said that the longest oil change interval he was personally aware of was 17,000 miles in a colleague's car. For 2010 vehicles, 14 of 35 manufacturers use oil life monitoring Evidence The oil life monitoring system in a 2007 Honda Fit Sport owned by an editor signaled for an oil change at 5,500 miles, due to a lot of around-town driving. Later, under highway conditions, the system (which Honda calls a "maintenance minder") came on at 7,600 miles. Clearly, the system had detected different driving conditions and adjusted we had the oil changed, we captured a sample and sent it to Blackstone Laboratories. Showing the conservative nature of the oil life sensors, the analysis showed the oil had at least 2,000 miles of life left in long-term 2008 Pontiac G8 GT driven by Edmunds went 13,000 miles before the monitoring system indicated the need for an oil change. We also sent a sample of that oil to a lab for analysis. The result: The oil could actually have safely delivered at least another 2,000 miles of service. "With an oil life system, we can use the software to tailor an oil drain interval to the behavior of a certain customer," Snider From the Schedules Perhaps the best thing about oil life monitoring systems is that they free car owners from the confusing exercise of slotting themselves in the normal or severe driving schedules listed in the owner's manual. Severe conditions are described differently by various carmakers, but some "severe" conditions that they frequently cite are driving in stop-and-go traffic, towing, excessive idling and driving in the many cases, quick-oil-change outlets and dealerships' service departments encourage frequent oil changes by claiming that every driver falls in the severe category. This begs the question: Why have a normal category at all? Oil life monitoring systems put an end to the debate by reacting to how you actually an Oil Life Monitoring System If your car has an oil life monitoring system, read your owner's manual to get a feel for how it's going to communicate with you. In general, the systems are designed to be easily understood and used. Some systems will display the percentage of oil life left so you can schedule a service visit. The systems factor in plenty of extra time for the driver who procrastinates. For additional motivation, however, some systems will display a negative number to show just how overdue the oil change a technician changes the oil, he resets the monitoring system. Do-it-yourselfers can easily do the reset, too, just by using a series of commands found in the owner's manual.
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In current day progressively complex cars, many entrepreneurs believe that the occasions of concentrating on your individual vehicle is history. Although this can be true for a lot of parts of vehicle repair, if you have been jobs the robotically adept person could tackle. First I'll enter into a couple of from the areas that could be difficult to identify and concentrate on. Lots of people hear the word computer and so they go running.

Personal computers run many facets of an automobile, but fortunately these take together on newer cars, by utilizing minimal equipment might be utilized and diagnostic codes attracted. Many occasions, these diagnostic codes provide all the data you need to make your repair. For example, right bank lamda sensor failure. This can be loss in and recommending the O2 sensor is failing round the right bank in the exhaust. The finest downfall here's you will need the equipment to tug this data out. Alternatively, you can check out a close AutoZone or Advanced Auto and so they can pull it to suit your needs. Once you have a diagnostic code, the repairs are as easy as they will be, mostly just replace. Next I'll enter into all of the couple of from the more widespread DIY projects a typical somewhat robotically inclined owner could tackle.

Troubleshoot Power Windows Power windows are standard equipment on most late model cars. Usually the windows cause few problems,but sometimes they can stop working,or fail to roll back up after being lowered. Problem: One Power Window Does Not Work (no noise,no nothing) If one power windows fails to move when you press the switch to lower it,the most likely causes would be a bad switch,a bad power window motor,a fault in the wiring circuit between the door switch and the door motor,or a wiring fault in the motor power or ground circuit. To diagnose this kind of fault,start with the switch since that is usually the easiest component to remove and check.

Use a fused jumper wire to bypass the switch and route power directly to the motor. If the window now moves,the problem is a bad switch autel maxitpms. Replace the switch. If the motor does nothing,the problem is a bad motor. Replace the power window motor. If there is no voltage to the switch,the problem may be a broken wire in the bundle of wires that pass between the door and door jam. This wiring bundle undergoes a lot of flexing every time the door is opened and closed,and it is not unusual for wires to break or short out in this area. Open the door and visually inspect the wiring harness that goes between the door and door jam for chaffing or signs of damage elite md802. Try wiggling the harness while pressing the power window switch (key on) to see if the window works or works intermittently (which would tell you the fault is in this area). Problem: One Power Window Does Not Work (you hear motor noise,but nothing happens) If you hear motor noise (humming or buzzing) from inside the door,but the window does not move when you press the switch,the problem is not the switch,motor or wiring. The problem is a broken window mechanism inside the door. Some power windows use a scissors linkage with a crank mechanism to raise and lower the window. If the linkage is rusty,jammed or broken,it can prevent the window from moving and/or cause it to stick (up or down). Other power windows use a plastic chain or strip to raise and lower the window linkage. Over time the plastic window drive becomes brittle,and cracks or breaks. This prevents the window from working. This type of failure often happens during cold weather,especially if ice has frozen the window shut and the motor tries to force it open. The fix is to remove the inner door panel and replace the broken plastic chain or drive strip. 

Replacing Brake Fluid Adding vs. Changing Brake Fluid Adding brake fluid is usually not part of routine vehicle maintenance. Low brake fluid typically means that your brake pads are low and soon need to be changed. If you notice a sudden drop in the brake fluid level,it could indicate a problem with your brake system,or that you simply need to change your brakes. Have a professional check your brakes if you are unsure. If you are sure that your brake pads are in serviceable condition and your brake fluid is below the add line,only then should you add fluid. Symptoms of Brake Problems Some braking problems have to do with the brake fluid. If your brakes have developed a"mushy"feel,or if they need to be pumped,then,rarely,air may have entered the line. Check the brake fluid level;if the reservoir is empty,then bleeding the brake lines to remove the air may improve the condition. However,if the reservoir still holds brake fluid,have the brakes checked as soon as possible. Brake Fluid Facts Keep these general facts in mind while handling brake fluid: * Never use DOT 5 brake fluid in a vehicle designed for DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids. * It is ok to use DOT 4 fluid in a vehicle that requires DOT 3,but not vice-versa. * NEVER substitute any other fluid for brake fluid. * Wash your hands immediately after coming in contact with brake fluid. It eats paint,so imagine what it'll do to skin. * Properly discard brake fluid that's been unsealed for more than one year. Check with your city for recycling days or centers. How to Check and Add Brake Fluid * Determine the location of the brake fluid reservoir elite md802. * Look inside the reservoir to determine the current fluid level. If it's at the"full"mark,close the reservoir and mark the date of the inspection in your maintenance log. * If the fluid level is below the"add"line,have your disc brakes checked. As disc brakes wear down,the fluid is displaced into the brake calipers. Most brake fluid reservoirs are designed so you should not have to add or"top off"the fluid. If the fluid looks dark,it is time to have it changed. Bleeding the Brake Lines to Remove Air Usually,two people are required to bleed a brake line;one to depress the brake pedal and one to drain the fluid into a container. These directions are the basic procedure for bleeding a brake line. Consult your service manual before you begin to bleed your own lines;this WILL NOT work for newer cars. Have the following items handy: * A section of plastic,vinyl or rubber tubing long enough to reach from the brake caliper to the clear plastic container. * A wrench to open and close the bleeder valve autel maxitpms. * A clear plastic container containing at least one inch of clean brake fluid,or enough to submerge the plastic tubing. Clear plastic is important so you can see the air bubbles as they exit the brake line. Here are the basic instructions for the process: * Open the reservoir and add brake fluid up to the full line. * Replace the cap on the master cylinder reservoir before you begin bleeding the line. Never remove the reservoir cap while the brake pedal is depressed. * Starting with the wheel rear wheels,locate the brake cylinder or caliper and find the bleed valve on the back side. It will look line a bolt with a nipple on it and may have a rubber cap that you will have to remove. * Place one end of the clear tube into the clear container to which you have added approximately one inch of brake fluid. Be sure to do this step before you connect the other end of the tube to the bleed valve. * With the tube end in the container of brake fluid,connect the other end of the tube to the bleed valve. * Use a wrench to loosen the valve on the brake caliper just slightly. Do not allow the brake fluid to begin to flow;just loosen the valve enough to make it easy to release when you are ready to bleed the line. * Now,have the person inside the vehicle pump the brake pedal a few times to build up pressure in the line,and then have them hold the brake pedal down firmly,without further pumping. * While the brake pedal is held in place,loosen the bleed valve enough to allow a small amount of brake fluid to flow out of the brake line and into your container. * Watch for the air bubbles to exit the tube placed in the clear plastic container with the brake fluid. * The person inside the vehicle should only allow the pedal to travel about 2/3rds of the way to the floor. Allowing the pedal to reach the floor may damage a master cylinder. Once the pedal reaches this position,the person inside should signals you with an"OK"so you know to tighten the bleeder screw. After the screw is tightened,signal the person inside with an"OK"so he may release the pedal. * Repeat this action of pumping the brakes and bleeding the fluid until there are no more bubbles remaining in the line. It is very important to remember to periodically check the fluid level in the reservoir,and always replace the cap before actuating the brake pedal. * Repeat the process above for the three remaining brake lines. Be sure your helper pumps and holds the brake pedal each time. * Once all four brake lines have been bled,fill the brake fluid reservoir to the"full"line,then close the cap, * Thoroughly rinse any spilled brake fluid spilled in the engine compartment off with water. * If you are in any doubt about the condition of your braking system,make an appointment for a brake inspection as soon as possible.
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